Installing a wall sconce can range from a simple, renter-friendly solution to a permanent, hardwired upgrade. Noah Miller, the home improvement expert for Rowabi, notes that the method you choose depends on your skill level and whether you have existing electrical wiring. Regardless of the method, for any job involving electrical boxes, safety is paramount: always turn off the power at the breaker and confirm it's off with a tester.
Key Takeaways
Hardwired Installation (Permanent):
- Safety First: Turn off power at the breaker and verify using a voltage tester before touching any wires.
- Mounting: Secure the new mounting bracket to the existing electrical box in the wall.
- Wiring: Connect matching color wires (black/hot, white/neutral) with wire nuts, and connect the ground wire to the bracket's green screw.
- Final Steps: Secure the sconce fixture to the bracket, install the bulb and shade, and restore power to test.
Corded (Plug-In) Installation (No Hardwiring):
- Mounting: Screw the mounting plate directly to the wall at the desired height (e.g., 30" above a nightstand).
-
Connection: Secure the sconce fixture to the plate, plug the cord into an outlet, and install the bulb.
Cordless (Battery) Installation (Renter-Friendly):
- Ease of Use: This option requires no wiring or drilling.
- Mounting: Use strong adhesive strips (like hook-and-loop) to affix the mounting plate to the wall.
- Operation: Attach the sconce fixture, typically using a battery-operated puck light, to the mounted plate.
Recommended heights for wall sconces
Choosing the correct height for wall sconces is crucial to maximizing their functionality and aesthetic appeal. So, what is the right height to confidently install your lights without any worries? Let's explore with Rowabi.
General living areas:
- Height: Typically, wall sconces should be mounted 60-66 inches from the floor. This places the light source at about eye level for most people, providing effective illumination without causing glare.
- Placement: For hallways or living rooms, space them about 6-8 feet apart to ensure even lighting and avoid creating dark spots.
The height for wall sconces for the living room.
Bathroom vanity:
- Height: Mount sconces at approximately 65-70 inches from the floor, aligning them with the average height of a person standing at the mirror.
- Placement: Position them on either side of the mirror, about 36-40 inches apart, to provide balanced lighting for grooming tasks. This setup reduces shadows on the face, which is essential for tasks like shaving or applying makeup.
Source: Rowabi.
Bedroom:
- Height: When placing sconces above a nightstand, aim for a height of 30-36 inches above the tabletop. This ensures the light is directed downwards, making it ideal for reading or creating a cozy ambiance.
- Placement: Position the sconces about 6-12 inches from the edge of the headboard to allow easy access to light switches while in bed.
Source: Rowabi.
Stairways and Corridors:
- Height: Install sconces at 60-72 inches from the floor, depending on the ceiling height and design preferences. This height helps to illuminate the path and enhance safety.
- Placement: Space the fixtures 8-10 feet apart, ensuring consistent lighting throughout the area without overwhelming brightness.
Dining Room:
- Height: For dining rooms, wall sconces should be mounted 60-66 inches from the floor, similar to living areas. They should be placed higher if the room has high ceilings, to maintain proportion and effective light distribution.
- Placement: Position them around 6-8 feet apart, ensuring they complement the main chandelier or pendant lighting without causing glare.
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Important safety tips
When installing a wall sconce, always turn off the power at the circuit breaker to prevent electrical shock. Use a voltage tester to confirm the power is off before starting. Avoid drilling into hidden wires by using a stud finder to locate any electrical lines behind the wall.
Ensure you have the right tools and follow the manufacturer’s instructions for a secure installation. Once installed, restore the power and test the sconce to ensure it works properly.
Necessary items
Before you get started, here’s a checklist of the tools and materials you’ll need to prepare:
Tools needed
- Manual drywall jab saw: Ideal for cutting through drywall to create space for the electrical box.
- Screwdriver set: Essential for tightening screws and securing the sconce to the wall.
- Drill and bits: Needed for making holes in the wall to mount the sconce. Use the appropriate bit size for wall anchors or screws.
- Stud finder: Helps locate wall studs and avoid drilling into hidden wires.
- Wire cutters/strippers: For trimming and preparing electrical wires.
- Voltage tester: To ensure that the power is off before you start working.
- Fish tape: Assists in running wires through walls and cavities.
- Pencil: For marking measurements and locations on the wall.
- Tape measure: Ensures precise measurements for proper installation and alignment.
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Materials needed
- Wall sconce fixture: The main lighting component, which should come with mounting hardware.
- Mounting bracket: Typically included with the sconce, it supports the fixture on the wall.
- Wall anchors and screws: Secure the sconce to the wall, especially if mounting on drywall.
- Wire nuts: For connecting electrical wires securely.
- Electrical tape: Used to insulate wire connections and ensure safety
- Electrical box: Provides a housing for the electrical connections and supports the sconce.
- Light switch: Controls the power to the sconce light.
- Old work switch box: Mounts the light switch in the wall.
- Light switch faceplate: Covers the switch and provides a finished look.
Gather your tools and materials, and let's get started on installing the light fixture! Source: @pixel-shot.com via Freepik: https://www.freepik.com/author/pixel-shot-com
Steps to follow to properly install a wall sconce
| Time | Level | Cost |
| 1-2 hours | Intermediate | $50 to $200 excluding the cost of sconces |
Are your tools and materials ready? Here are the super-detailed, step-by-step instructions to ensure you nail your sconce light installation:
Switch off the electricity
Before beginning the installation, ensure the power to the work area is turned off by shutting off the appropriate circuits at the electric service panel. This crucial step prevents any risk of electrical shock.
Identify the wall studs
Use a stud finder to locate the vertical wall studs between which you plan to install the sconce. Mark their positions with painter’s tape, noting that studs are typically 14.5 to 16 inches apart. This will help you securely mount the light and switch boxes.
Identify the positions for the light and switch
Decide and mark the exact spots for the sconce light and switch on the wall. Ensure these marks are positioned between the wall studs. While electrical codes don’t specify exact switch heights, a standard height is about 48 inches from the floor.
Outline and cut the opening for the light box and light switch box
If your round electrical box includes a paper template, use it to outline the hole on the drywall. Cut the hole using a drywall jab saw or a hole saw to match the size of the light box, typically 4 inches in diameter. Remove the drywall cutout.
Source: Rowabi.
Similarly, use a template for the switch box or the box itself as a guide to cut the hole in the wall. Ensure the hole is appropriately sized to accommodate the switch box.
Determine the type of outlet box
Remove the faceplate from the existing outlet and check for power using a non-contact voltage tester.
Determine if the outlet box is an old-work box (with screws for removal) or a nail-in/ screw-in box (which cannot be removed without removing drywall).
- Old-work box: Designed for retrofitting into existing walls, secured with screws. Remove by unscrewing the screws and pulling the box out. Ideal for modifications or replacements.
- Nail-in or screw-in box: Installed during wall construction, fixed with nails or screws through the box into the studs. Not easily removable without drywall removal. Work around it or cut and patch the drywall if needed.
Take out the existing outlet box
For old-work boxes, unscrew and remove the box while keeping it attached to its wires. If replacing an existing box, pull it out gently without disconnecting the wires.
Connect wires between the light box and switch box
Fish a length of 14/2 wire from the light box hole to the switch box hole, leaving about 8 to 10 inches of wire extending from each hole. For shorter runs, fish tape may not be necessary, but use it if needed for easier wire management.
Be careful when connecting the wires, ensuring accuracy and attention to detail. Source: Rowabi.
Mount the light box in the wall
Insert the 14/2 wire into the light box and position the box in the wall opening. Secure it by tightening the screws on the box to hold it firmly in place.
Secure the mounting hardware
Use a wire ripper to strip the outer casing of the 14/2 wire, then strip the ends of the wires. Attach the metal ring or mounting hardware to the light box, threading the wires through as you do so.
Connect the sconce to the wiring and box
Connect the sconce’s wires to the 14/2 wires using wire nuts. Match the colors—black to black, white to white, and bare copper to bare copper. Secure the sconce onto the mounting hardware with provided fasteners.
Connect wires between the switch box and outlet
Fish a length of 14/2 wire from the switch box to the outlet. Use fish tape for nail-in or screw-in boxes if necessary. Ensure about 8 to 10 inches of wire extend from both the switch and outlet holes:
- For old-work box: If you're working with an old-work outlet box, drop a length of 14/2 wire from the switch box hole down to the outlet hole. This method is straightforward as the existing box is accessible.
- For nail-in or screw-in box: For nail-in or screw-in outlet boxes that are more difficult to remove, use fish tape to run the wire. Insert the fish tape into the back of the outlet box, then feed it upwards through the wall to the switch box hole. Pull the wire through to connect the switch and outlet.
Mount the switch box in the wall
Insert the wires into the back of the switch box and position it in the wall opening. Secure it by tightening the screws with a manual screwdriver.
Verify that the box is level and aligned correctly. Source: Rowabi.
Connect the light switch to the wiring
Black wires: Connect the line black wire (power source) to one terminal on the light switch. Connect the load black wire (to the sconce) to the other terminal. This allows the switch to control the sconce.
White wires: Twist the white wire from the power source with the white wire to the sconce. This bypasses the switch, completing the circuit.
Bare copper ground wire: Twist together the two bare copper wires and a third short copper wire. Cap with a wire nut and attach the loose end to the green screw on the switch for grounding.
Final assembly: Secure the switch to the box with screws and attach the faceplate to finish the installation.
Connect the wire to the outlet
Complete the wiring by connecting the 14/2 wire to the outlet. Ensure proper connections—black wire to gold terminals, white wire to silver terminals, and ground wires twisted together with a wire nut.
Secure any extra wires with wire nuts or crimp connectors:
- End of circuit: For outlets at the end of a circuit, connect the black wire to the gold terminal and the white wire to the silver terminal. Remove any old ground wire and attach the new ground wires, then connect them to the outlet.
- Part of a circuit: For outlets in a series, create pigtail connections. Attach the black wire from the switch to the existing black wire, and the white wire similarly. Twist the ground wires together and connect them to the outlet’s ground terminal.
Tip: Use pigtail connections for a secure fit, and keep wires organized by color for safety.
Secure the outlet
Push the wires back into the outlet box and attach the outlet with screws. Place the outlet faceplate on and secure it in place.
Switch on the sconce light
Restore power at the electric service panel and test the sconce light by flipping the switch. Verify that the light functions correctly and is properly installed.
Installation tips and problem-solving for sconce lights
Sometimes things don’t go as planned. If you encounter issues, here are some common problems and important tips to keep in mind when installing a sconce light:
- Switch orientation: If your sconce light switch operates in reverse (up is off, down is on), simply turn off the circuit and reposition the switch upside-down to correct the issue. Ensure the power is off before making adjustments.
- Double-check connections: Always double-check your wire connections before securing them. Loose or incorrect connections can lead to malfunction or electrical hazards. Ensure that each wire is properly stripped and connected with wire nuts.
- Integrated switch option: Consider purchasing a sconce with an integrated switch for easier installation. This eliminates the need for a separate wall switch and simplifies the setup. However, some prefer the flexibility of a wall-mounted switch for convenience.
- Lighted wall switch: Installing a lighted wall switch can enhance safety and ease of use, especially in low-light conditions. It allows you to locate and operate the switch more easily compared to a non-lighted switch.
- Old-work box installation: When installing old-work boxes into drywall, use a manual Phillips screwdriver rather than a power drill. Drills can exert too much pressure and break the plastic clamps, whereas a screwdriver provides more control and reduces the risk of damage.
Conclusion
In summary, installing a wall sconce can be a straightforward and rewarding DIY project when you follow the right steps.
By ensuring you have all the necessary tools and materials, carefully preparing the installation area, and connecting the wiring correctly, you can achieve a professional-looking result with minimal hassle.
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